The first time I visited Bioluminescent Bay in Puerto Rico, it was a magical experience. I’d booked it as a shore excursion on a cruise stop. After an hour bus ride, we arrived at the water’s edge just as the dark was settling in. There weren’t any lights in the surrounding area; I assumed we were at a marina. We each got into our kayaks, and left the Caribbean Sea to paddle down a river in the dark. We couldn't see the mangroves as much as we could feel their presence as they closed in on the river and hid the darkening sky. I don’t remember seeing stars at that point, but they must have been there. I was too scared thinking of creepy crawlies dropping out of the branches overhead. Before we reached the bay I could see them. We entered into a magical world of wizardry as light streamed off the tail of the kayak in front of me. As each side of the paddle …